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xmag.com
: October 2001:New York State of Mind |
I
was
awake at the dawning of the new world.
I
got up early that day. I had coffee, thought about what
to wear. Took a hot bath. Wanted love, real estate and
rock and roll.
I
was surviving after five months in the naked city, and
feeling pretty damn victorious about it. I was loved and
respected and had even managed to beguile two local fishwrappers
to dish on my persona that very week. New York Magazine
was running a piece about my sexual exploits called "The
Newbie" (in which I was described as an atypical ex-stripper
with a first-class education and cowgirl eyes who covers
her mouth when she laughs) and in days my first big piece
(regarding my first big love: rock 'n' roll) would appear
in the Village Voice. Portland friends were coming
to visit for the CMJ music festival and I was closing
in on an apartment and a drummer. The weather was perfect.
It was Fashion Week. It was September 11th.
I
ran to catch my subway at Borough Hall in Brooklyn. It
wasn't packed like it usually was. I got cozy for the
ride to midtown as the train lurched under the East River
and into Manhattan. By Bowling Green I got a seat. The
next stop was Wall Street, and the end of the world as
I knew it.
At
Wall Street, a handful of guys in suits got on, looking
about as happy as guys in suits EVER look. They were chattering
like gossip columnists at a wedding, something about airplanes
flying into buildings. The World Trade Center. And that
this was probably the last train in any direction that
we were on, hallelujah, and that they were goin' to New
Jersey.
The
atmosphere changed perceptibly. I glanced around the subway
at everyone else who was glancing around the subway. We
were petrified. The train stopped at Fulton Street, right
under the World Trade Center, and the doors seemed to
never close. I did not want to be underground. I wanted
to run the hell out of there and keep running to the south
Bronx. Or to South Dakota.
Each
subway stop offered its own destiny like a choose-your-own-adventure
book from my childhood. Brooklyn Bridge: I could run home
to Brooklyn. But if the shit hit the fan, I'd be stuck
there, on Long Island. I'd played enough Risk to know
that. If I got off at Union Square, I could sleep off
this nightmare at a friend's house: all the late-night
Village people were undoubtedly still snug in bed. But
again, if this was as bad as as it sounded, that whole
area might be pretty ugly, too. So I stayed on 'til Grand
Central, my usual stop, and dutifully went to my two-day
a week 9-5 copy-writing job, unsure of what else to do.
When
I got to Fifth Avenue, there were hordes of people gawking
in horror at the towering inferno down the street. Some
were crying. All were on cell phones. I went in to my
office where my boss, the author of the businessman's
Bible, The Power of Yes, tried assuaging me with
statistics:
"The
odds are one in eight million you'd be on that floor when
the plane hit....just relax and find some work....probably
more like one in ten million...." Hadn't he heard there
were two planes? i.e., HIGHLY CHOREOGRAPHED TERRORIST
ATTACK?! All the secretaries were crying. The Pentagon
was hit. My supervisor grabbed my arm, saying, "Let's
get some tea and get to work." Instead we went to see
Evelyn, who had a daughter on the 83rd floor. That girl
was dead. We all knew it. I was out of there. I might
be the new kid in town, without that New Yawk tuff to
talk me down, but I had survival instincts and they were
screamin'. There were other targets all around us: Times
Square, Grand Central, the Empire State Building, the
U.N. Building. I was Snake Pliskin. I was Escape from
New York. I was walkin' to Connecticut in my slutty
Florentine bootsnot quite made-for-walkin', and
carrying a five-pound Proust novelnot quite made-for-carryin'.
Walking
up Park Avenue, I was most shocked by all the people
doing their normal New York things. The gal on the corner
was still distributing flyers advertising $3.99 lunch
specials, as if this mass migration of people might
be her big break. Old dudes were still lookin' me up
and down and young dudes hollered and whistled from
cars. Near the Met, a T-shirt guy was straightening
his wares, many with that old familiar skyline, the
skyline of the old era, the old civilization, an age
of innocence when people wrote magazines about clothes.
But
it's all over now, baby blue. The soulless silly zeitgeist
that was the best my generation could dish up is dissipating
with the dust. This horrible cataclysm has given our
lives gravitas we've never known, and overnight. Entirely
new ways of surviving are percolating on the streets
of New York. One can only pray what results is not an
era of terror or vengeance, but of heightened consciousness,
faith and love. And subsequently trenchant art, words
and music.
By
Wednesday the 12th, when the new era was self-evident
and there was no turning back, what was most haunting
and bizarre about this island-wide crime scene is how
normal and calm everything was: how New Yorkers were
desperately clinging to their little everyday rituals,
and how these little thingsgetting out of bed,
buying orange juice, riding the subway, walking the
dog, writing about clotheswill rebuild this nation
more than billions of dollars of federal aid or the
second-grade sound-bites of our President and all his
men and women. These people have got the weight of the
world on their backs, and they look it. People have
turned inward, they've been brutally reminded what's
really important and they are sad, so sad. But they
know where to turn for help: They turn to each other,
and they turn to their God. This is one town with a
heart big enough to heal the whole nation. And I heart
it more than ever. I heart New York.
Meanwhile,
back at the ranch, Mom's burying her head in the New
York Times and Dad wants us to have our passports
ready in order to move the Las Vegases back to Norway.
But I've listened to his sermons enough times to know
what I gotta do right now. I'm walking the NYC streets;
I'm sayin I-love-yous; I'm listening to strangers. Cuz
the most important thing in times like these, says the
Reverend, is just to be present.
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